In 1942, the United States produced 458 million pounds of wool a year. In 2023, the number was 22 million pounds. A 95% collapse over 80 years. Synthetic fibers, cheap Australian imports, and the general offshoring of American manufacturing wiped out one of the country's oldest textile industries. But a handful of ranchers, mills, and brands are trying to rebuild it. Here is what is happening.
What Happened to American Wool
American wool production peaked during World War II when the military needed uniforms, blankets, and socks in bulk. After the war, synthetic fibers (nylon, polyester, acrylic) undercut wool on price. Australia scaled up merino production and flooded the global market. By the 1980s, most American wool mills had closed and the remaining sheep ranches had shifted toward meat production instead of fiber. USDA - Wool Production Statistics
The institutional knowledge eroded with the industry. By 2000, there were almost no remaining American worsted wool spinning mills. Most "American wool" sweaters and socks were made from wool imported from Australia, New Zealand, or South America — because domestic fiber was not available at commercial scale.
Pendleton
Pendleton Woolen Mills is the anchor of American wool. Founded in 1909 in Pendleton, Oregon, the company has continuously operated its original mill (now plus a second in Washougal, WA) for over a century. They weave wool on American looms using wool they source through partnerships with American growers and, when needed, supplementing with Australian merino.
Pendleton's national park blankets, board shirts, and Lodge shirts are all still made in Oregon and Washington from wool that passes through their own mills. The flannels and blankets that made Pendleton famous in the mid-20th century are made on the same looms, in the same buildings, by the next generation of the same workers. Pendleton Woolen Mills
Pendleton is not 100% American wool — they blend domestic and imported fiber to meet volume needs. But they are the largest continuously operating American wool mill and the backbone of the remaining supply chain.
Imperial Stock Ranch
Imperial Stock Ranch in Shaniko, Oregon is a 150-year-old sheep ranch that runs one of the most ambitious American wool traceability programs in the country. They sell their fiber as "Imperial Yarn" and have supplied wool for Ralph Lauren's US Olympic team sweaters (2014), Smartwool collaborations, and Pendleton limited releases.
The ranch is run by Jeanne Carver, who has been one of the most vocal advocates for rebuilding the American wool supply chain. She has worked directly with designers to bring traceable American wool back into high-volume production. The challenge is that small ranches cannot meet the volume demands of large brands, so rebuilding requires coordinating dozens or hundreds of small producers into a shared supply chain. Imperial Stock Ranch
Ramblers Way
Ramblers Way is a Maine-based brand founded by Tom and Kate Chappell (also the founders of Tom's of Maine). They make wool base layers, sweaters, and socks from 100% American merino wool sourced from a network of ranches in the western US. Everything is spun, knit, and sewn in the US.
Their supply chain is one of the few truly domestic operations in American wool. Fiber from American sheep, processed at American mills, knit into garments at American factories. They charge accordingly — a merino base layer runs $80-120. Ramblers Way
Other American Wool Brands to Know
Duckworth. Montana-based. All fiber comes from the Helle family ranch in Dillon, Montana. They manage the supply chain from sheep to store. Technical wool base layers and outerwear.
Woolrich (historically). Founded 1830 in Pennsylvania. Their original Pennsylvania mill is now closed, and the brand has been acquired and shifted most production overseas. Historical Woolrich from before 2018 is American made. Current Woolrich is not.
Dehen 1920. Portland, Oregon. Varsity jackets and knitwear made in Oregon from wool they blend from American and imported sources.
Faribault Woolen Mill. Minnesota. One of the last remaining American woolen mills producing blankets and throws. They source wool from a mix of American and imported growers and weave everything in Faribault.
Appalachian Baby. West Virginia. Small operation making baby blankets and apparel from Appalachian-raised wool.
Why It Matters
American wool is not just a romantic idea. Rebuilding domestic wool production means:
- Traceability. You can often name the ranch your sweater came from. This is impossible with offshored supply chains.
- Environmental standards. American ranches operate under EPA and USDA oversight. Overseas wool often comes from operations with no meaningful environmental regulation.
- Rural economies. Wool production supports sheep ranching, which supports rural western communities. Without the wool market, sheep ranching becomes economically marginal.
- Resilience. A domestic supply chain is not vulnerable to shipping disruptions, tariffs, or geopolitical shocks. COVID exposed how fragile global textile supply chains are.
What You Can Do
Buy from brands that source American wool when possible. Ask questions — most brands will tell you where their wool comes from if you email them directly. Look for certifications like the American Wool Assurance Standard and traceability labels like Imperial Yarn.
It will cost more. An American wool sweater runs $150-300, versus $50-100 for comparable imported wool. That premium goes directly to American ranchers and millers, and it is the only way the supply chain rebuilds.
Bottom Line
American wool is slowly coming back because a few determined ranchers, millers, and brands refused to let it die. It is not at scale yet, and it may never be at the scale it was in 1942. But there is a real supply chain, real products, and a real way to support it. For American wool products, see best American-made flannels, best American-made socks, and best American-made camp blankets.